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Please choose your point of interest from below:
INTRODUCTION by Rene Schmitz of PSOTEC.NET
BASIC EQUIPMENT I USE FOR BOTH KINDS OF PHOTOGRAPHY
ENJOY A SMALL SELECTION OF ASSORTED PHOTOGRAPHIES
INTRODUCTION
Photography as known has changed a lot. The more classical approach is shapeshifting to a new era. No, not digital photography but the combination of both.
A "SYMBIOSIS OF BOTH WORLDS" I like to call this phenomena.
All the new digital cameras offer more and more the capabilities of a mechanical shutter camera, from lenses to zoom factors, aperture modes to resolution.
But these high-tech cameras do have their price. I am not talking about the brand new SONY, CASIO you name it. These are mainstream cameras even if the prices suggest
a different point of view.
Real pros use a high quality mechanical shutter camera for example HASSELBLAD or a NIKON, applying an digital back namely from VOLARE perfects the optimal digital camera.
These cameras modified to this degree plus optional extras go up to the $20.000 border or even more.
To be honest I can´t afford a camera like that. Can you?
So what can you do? Well I for my part use my digital camera for testing, finding the right location, the optimal illumination, which kind of flashes, apertures
etc. If I am certain about all these options I use my mechanical camera, adjust my settings and ban the object on film. As I shoot mostly black and white I use an Ilford
film for optimal results, get that film developed and in the scanner it goes. Get your Photoshop or whatever running and refine your capture.
OK, but what about having only a digital camera or the to be photographed object is only viewable at that instance or for a short period of time.
You should have at least a 1.x Megapixel camera for good results. Import the picture from your digicam to your computer open your photoshop and try to catch
the important parts into paths. Save your paths to *.eps and from their enlarge to your desired size fill your paths modify with textures, filters, texture cloning
and the like. It is hard to represent an actual enlargement on this way but it gives your pictures an experimental touch and the best part is that you can enlarge the
paths to any desired size, meaning you can get your file to litho and have your own sharp posters, any size, printed.
This is only some advice, there is more you can do but that depends on your choice of photo. New advices or techniques will be posted here.
If you find this interesting or you have your own ideas feel free to write ( no attachements please,
send a link instead where I can view your images ! )
Enjoy my experiences, shots and the pleasure of taking photographs.
Yours
Rene Schmitz
of PSOTEC.net
(This introduction only represents the view of the author, any naming of brands, prices or circumstances are just an reflection of his own experience.)
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BASIC EQUIPMENT
Updated 15.03.2002
Photography has always caught my attention. Some time ago I learned how to to self-develop films and the technique of enlarging my negatives.
For a few years this leasure time activity rested due to a lack of time. Since 1998 I found my way back to photography. I started with a digital
mavica from SONY, which was an ideal camera for quick shots and an almost instant upload to my previous website.
Look at what has happened since then
and what cameras I use now. Check back regularly to find out what I am up to at the moment or which camera has been added to my collection.
Please choose your desired object:
NIKON SLR & DIGITAL
PRAKTICA SLR
MANFROTTO TRIPODS
BATTERIES / CHARGER
NIKON COOLPIX-5000
The Nikon COOLPIX-5000, manufactured in 2002, is my newest addition in 2002.
Well this camera came in just the right moment. I wanted to buy a negative-scanner for my SLR pictures and then this camera came along. With its very high technical details, like 5.24 MegaPixel, endless combinations of programmable adjustments, its alloy-magnesium body and lots of other fine capabilities that only the D1, D1X, D1H and soon the D100 carry.
I bought the camera in combination with an 1GB IBM MicroDrive. Let us just say so much, with basic settings the display on the camera reads "9999" pictures left. I roughly tried to calculate the number and came to a close 15.000!
I normally use this camera in a resolution of 2560x1920 in 72dpi and graphic details high. This setting leaves about 500 pictures to shoot. In highest resolution mode with 300 dpi one picture takes up the size of 15MB. Through the very good CCD and various options of addressing its interface the pictures are of amazing detail and color. The monitor can be revolved around its own axis and offers the same option of taking photos from different angles like the Coolpix´s predecessors.
For lightning purposes I use a Nikon-Flash "SPEEDLIGHT SB-22" which is of course compatible with the Coolpix and offers a better lightning than the integrated flash. The camera is able to use TTL and with this great option you can save money if you allready have a Nikon flash by merely using it like on your analog SLR.
NIKON F-501AF
The Nikon F-501AF, manufactured in 1986, is the newest addition in my collection. Together with the NIKKORS in 28,50 and 70-210mm plus Tele-adapter the Nikon
is the best reflex-camera i ever possessed. The Nikon features an solid metal-body, three different focus modes, a load of apertures, up to 4 shots manually a second or you can switch
to serial-shooting in which the Nikon shoots 6 pics per second. Of course the most precious of all features is the quality of the pictures , at that point you know it is a pro-camera. In practical use the Nikon delievers quick focus adjusting, good control of the camera in the case of quick-photo action. It is really fun to work with this camera, the motor of the Nikon is very strong and every click on the release is a "satisfaction" of having a pro-cam in your hands. As I shoot mainly black and white pictures, I use a set of filters, consisting of normal UV-filters, special black and white filters, daylight filters. The more you experiment with filters and exposure settings the more fantastich pictures this camera delievers. Of course I got myself a different tripod for the Nikon, a tripod named "MAGIC1", the tripod itself is as old as the camera and i don´t have any specifications on it. I bought it used but I´ll try to post specifications of it here on this site. The tripod is very handy and snaps perfectly to my "CULLMANN" camera bag. Once extracted it measures a sturdy 1.80m with the base for mounting the camera located on a metal-ball that swivels the camera into every position imagineable. The construction of the "MAGIC1" tripod is very sturdy due to its material, consisting of some sort of flight-aluminium being used in airplane-construction.
NIKON AF NIKKORS IN 28mm; 50mm; 70-210mm
NIKON SPEEDLIGHT SB-22
For lightning purposes I use a Nikon-Flash "SPEEDLIGHT SB-22", a METZ-Flash "MECABLITZ 40CT4" and a "SILMA AUTOSET" from an italian company named SILMA from Rivoli in italy, the SILMA is for shooting inside, featuring a plug for power, and very good metering and auto-timing function.
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PRAKTICA F.X 2
The PRAKTICA F.X 2 was built in the former german democratic republic from 3/1958 till 6/1959, limited to 29110 pieces.
It is very comfortable to use this camera because of its minimalistic design and handling. The viewfinder concept is equal to that of an Hasselblad, making it a very learnfull camera for intermediates. The SLR-technic is very sturdy and its results are simply great, very high details and in combination with Black and White films photography is a dream, I always use an Ilford film for great results. The price for this camera is very low and therefore it is a very good starter-kit for anyone interested in classical-analog photography.
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MANFROTTO 141RC SWIVEL-HEAD WITH FAST CLIP AND MANFROTTO #144 TRIPOD
The use of a tripod is very essential, it does not have to be a MANFROTTO or a SACHTLER at the beginning, but don´t buy an all to cheap one. Check out ebay
for some good tripods. A good catch are old wood tripods as used for elder telescopes, they are sturdy and do an excellent job. A remote controll, both infrared or
by wire should be by hand or the whole tripod idea won´t work if you shoot time lapses or want to portray yourself. Believe me it is a real comfort having your remote.
I use a MANFROTTO #144 in combination with the MANFROTTO-141RC or a swivelhead from a german company, depending on the kind of angles I need. What i especially
like when using the MANFROTTO-tripod is the option of leaving the mounting-socket of the tripod on your camera so that it is an ease of dismounting your camera for quick access without tripod.
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If you use a digital camera with an LCD monitor, like I do be sure to have extra sets of rechargeable batteries or accus and a good loading station that drains the rest of
your used battery or accu and the refreshes. Invest money in this item because this is the heart of your digicam.
I use a "ANSMANN POWERLINE 4" Charger and "ANSMANN 1800 mAh NIMH" rechargeable batteries for best results. These really hold a while, especially for time lapses or night photography.
If you use a photobag for carrying you should include a brush for cleaning the lens of dust and the like. For good cleaning of fingerprints, dryed drops use a piece of silk cloth for example
from an old tie or handkerchief but they must be 100% silk or you´ll end up putting scratches on you lens!
If your lens is threaded for filters and attachments you should buy a UV-filter for extra protection from scratches on the original lens. The lens on my digital camera is threaded for 43mm filters and attachments.
I use a doublethreaded lens from "hama" which offers the same thread as the camera uses so you don´t loose this very good option of using extra filters or attachements.
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